For a century and a half, they have been quintessential small-town Canadian institutions. They create jobs and opportunities for newcomers and they fill a void for the entire community, often providing services and infrastructure that don't otherwise exist. These restaurants serve many purposes, said Cho. Of course there are Chinese-American restaurants in the United States, but the story up here – from the way the restaurants spread across the country along with the railroad, to the invention of dishes like Alberta ginger beef and Thunder Bay Bon Bon ribs – is uniquely Canadian. "They are, in very much a weird way, a Canadian thing," said Lily Cho, a York University professor who has written a book on Chinese restaurants. But, at least on Fogo Island, that didn't seem to be the case. I had assumed the small-town Chinese restaurant was a fading piece of the country's history, a relic of the past. Now living in Toronto, I've witnessed first-hand the rapid development of very diverse Chinese cuisines in this city, too. I would listen as relatives argued about which dim sum restaurant's har gow wrapper was the thinnest, or whose xiao long bao the juiciest. A mix of ideas both East and West and, to my eyes, frozen in time.įor my family, and every other Chinese family I knew growing up in Vancouver, food was an obsession. The name "chop suey" translates more or less into "assorted mix," and refers to a repertoire of dishes mostly developed in North America in the mid-20th century. This was "chop suey" cuisine, which is distinct from "authentic" Chinese food. "Good in that guilty pleasure kind of way." "Chinese Canadian food," the writer proclaimed. There was also a photo of the Kwang Tung menu, an inventory of Chinese-Canadian classics: sweet and sour won tons, moo goo guy pan and a long list of dishes dredged in batter, deep-fried and coated in sweet, sticky, vaguely spicy sauces. How did the restaurant wind up there? Why would someone decide to open a Chinese restaurant on Fogo Island? The post included a photo of a plate of food: a deep-fried egg roll, its blistered surface laid atop brown fried rice. I first learned of Kwang Tung after stumbling across it in a food blog post titled " I can't believe there's a Chinese restaurant in Fogo." Like the author, I was bewildered. )Ībout an hour-long ferry ride off the northeast coast of Newfoundland, where the frigid waters of the Atlantic Ocean crash onto a jutting granite shoreline, is the tiny island of Fogo – a place so remote that conspiracy theorists believe it to be one of the four corners of the Earth.Īnd in a small village on this island – where wooden houses and clapboard sheds dot the shore like Monopoly pieces – is Kwang Tung Restaurant, Fogo Island's very own Chinese café. But the atmosphere had me the minute we walked in the door.(This is part one of a two-part feature. I have to say we really enjoyed our meal. Chopped salad was delicious, full serving of ribs were great, and I love the sweet butter and bread. We had a party of seven and they didn't miss a beat!" Google Review, 2023 "This is one of our favorite places to eat. "Wonderfully cooked meal excellent atmosphere attentive staff perfect drinks! Highly recommend The Chop House to anyone visiting the Dayton area." TripAdvisor Review, 2023 The chopped salad (my favorite) was huge, great flavor and fresh." TripAdvisor Review, 2023 The chop and the potato was huge, enough for 2 meals! The chop was juicy and grilled just right. "I ordered the Pork Chop with a baked potato and the chopped salad.
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